Wednesday, September 24th
We woke to thunder and lightning this morning along with a deluge of rain. Although the forecast indicated the rain would let up mid-morning, the track we would be walking was primarily along gravel or dirt paths with numerous waterway crossings. We had read reviews from previous pilgrims saying these streams and waterways could be high and the crossings difficult after a heavy rainfall. Long story short, we decided not to walk today.
Instead, we had a leisurely breakfast and then had our host order a taxi for us at 11:00 so we could spend some time in Radicofani. We visited the local church, bought groceries, had lunch, and then tried to hike to the fortress above town but were blocked when we came to a barricaded path. Rather than return to our accommodations via taxi, we decided to walk the 4 miles back to Agriturismo Podere San Giorgio.
Dinner tonight was one of the best we’ve had since being here. From the various crostini appetizers to the first course of a cheese and sausage lasagna, to the second course of barbecued beef and roasted potatoes, to a berry custard for dessert, it was delicious. This was more food than we’re accustomed to eating. Typically, each of us orders either a pasta or meat dish accompanied by a salad or roasted vegetables. Tonight, we ate like true Italians!
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| A view of Radicofani's fortress tower |
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| Romanesque Chiesa di San Pietro |
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Enjoying a stroll through Radicofani's medieval
streets |
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Central piazza in Radicofani - Piazza di Ghino
di Tacco - named after a famous Sienese
gentleman bandit |
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| Looking back at the hilltop town of Radicofani |
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| Strolling back from town |
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| Cypress-lined driveway to our agriturismo |
Thursday, September 25th
The full route today was 18+ miles, but we opted to shorten it and requested a transfer from the town of Ponte a Rigo to Proceno. Additionally, we had an early morning 4-mile transfer from the agriturismo to Radicofani. Since we were walking a shorter track today, Rich joined us on our journey. After a long downhill from Radicofani, the track leveled out as we walked on gravel and dirt paths toward Ponte a Rigo. The landscape has changed dramatically. Gone are most of the vineyards, olive groves and cypress trees. Instead, we’re seeing farmlands and freshly plowed fields.
Rain was threatening as we reached Ponte a Rigo, but we found a sheltered picnic table at a pilgrim rest stop just outside town and waited for our ride. We were joined by a young woman from Vancouver, B.C. who was also walking to Rome. However, she was walking quite a bit further than we were today. We only hope she made it to her destination before the rain started.
Total mileage was 9 miles with 320 feet of elevation gain.
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| A last view of Radicofani |
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According to this sign we've come 793 km (493 miles)
from Aosta and have 184 km (114 miles) to Rome
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| Changing scenery |
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| Storm clouds are brewing |
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| Exploring the medieval streets of Proceno |
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| Colorful flower baskets everywhere |
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View of the Castello di Proceno, our lodging for
the night |
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