Via Francigena Days 39 and 40: Bolsena to Montefiascone & Montefiascone to Viterbo

Sunday, September 28th

Our route today from Bolsena to Montefiascone had us primarily on quiet gravel roads and peaceful forest paths with numerous views of Lake Bolsena as we climbed the hills high above the lake. Although we had a few steep hills throughout the day for a total elevation gain of 1800+ feet over 10.6 miles, it was a pleasurable walk.

In Montefiascone, we visited the Basilica di Santa Margarita and its Crypt of Saint Lucia Filippini where the incorrupt (non-decomposed) body of Saint Lucia is housed under the basilica’s high altar. Sculptures of the Stations of the Cross (the largest I have ever seen) line the interior walls of the crypt.

According to the signposts in Montefiascone, we have 100 km to Rome. Only 6 more days of walking!

View of Lake Bolsena and one of its islands

Tranquil forest path

A mushroom forager shows us the chanterelle
mushrooms he found

Cairns left by passing pilgrims

View of the Basilica di Santa Margarita

One of the bigger-than-life size stations of 
the cross

The tomb of Saint Lucia Filippini

Monday, September 29th

On our way out of town this morning we stopped at the pilgrim viewpoint for a last look at Lake Bolsena before heading down the hill and out of town. After a long 3.5-mile downhill walk, we had a short climb and then the rest of the way was relatively flat. Total mileage was 11.5 miles with 500 feet of elevation gain. 

Part of our route today was along the ancient Via Cassia, a road built by the Romans in the 2nd c. BC to link Rome with Florence. We also traveled gravel roads and forest paths as we walked through more farmlands. Farmers are busy either tilling or harvesting their fields. 

View of Lake Bolsena from the pilgrim viewpoint

Walking the Via Cassia

Tending sheep

One last view of Montefiascone

Pilgrim welcome sign to Viterbo

View of Viterbo's charming old town

Another charming street

The sculpted doors of Viterbo's
Cathedral of San Lorenzo

Via Francigena Day 38 and Rest Day: Proceno to Bolsena & Rest Day in Bolsena

Friday. September 26th

We slept in a 1,000-year-old castle last night! Our hostess was a descendent of the original owner and the castle and other buildings have remained in the family all this time. Talk about a family legacy! She and her husband now run the hotel and restaurant and still live on the premises. They both must be in their eighties, but she spoke perfect English, showed us to our apartment yesterday, offered to do our laundry, waited on us last night at dinner and was ever the consummate hostess. 

Taking our dinner order. The wine is a
private label of the Castello di Proceno.

Our route originally was going to be 18.5 miles, but we decided to shorten it to 11 miles by arranging a transfer from the town of San Lorenzo Nuovo to Bolsena. After a heart-pumping climb to the town of Acquapendente, the remainder of our trek was a gentle uphill to the town of San Lorenzo Nuovo. We walked past plowed fields that earlier in the season contained hay and grain, past a large grain elevator and two solar energy farms, and then more farmland, this time a large, harvested field of potatoes. Total elevation gain today was 1270 feet.

Tranquil forest path

View of Acquapendente

A bit of a jungle

Saturday, September 27th

Today was our last pre-arranged rest day. The town of Bolsena sits on its namesake lake, Lago di Bolsena, which happens to be Europe’s largest volcanic lake. Between 100,000 and 200,000 years ago successive volcanic eruptions led to the collapse of the earth’s crust in the volcano’s caldera, forming the lake and its two islands.

We spent the day visiting La Rocco Monaldeschi della Cervara, a castle originally built by Pope Adrian IV in the 12th century and which now houses a municipal museum. We also walked along the lakefront, explored the many shops in town, and visited the Church  of Santa Cristina and its catacombs, where we also attended a Saturday evening Mass. Ready for our last week on the road.

View of Lake Bolsena

Etruscan and Roman artifacts at the municipal museum

View from the tower of La Rocco Monaldeschi
della Cervara

Another tower view

In the catacombs

Sarcophagus of St. Cristine 

View of La Rocco Monaldeschi della Cervara

Beautiful moonlit night over the lake

Via Francigena Days 36 and 37: Castiglione d'Orcia to Radicofani & Radicofani to Proceno

Wednesday, September 24th

We woke to thunder and lightning this morning along with a deluge of rain. Although the forecast indicated the rain would let up mid-morning, the track we would be walking was primarily along gravel or  dirt paths with numerous waterway crossings. We had read reviews from previous pilgrims saying these streams and waterways could be high and the crossings difficult after a heavy rainfall. Long story short, we decided not to walk today.

Instead, we had a leisurely breakfast and then had our host order a taxi for us at 11:00 so we could spend some time in Radicofani. We visited the local church, bought groceries, had lunch, and then tried to hike to the fortress above town but were blocked when we came to a barricaded path. Rather than return to our accommodations via taxi, we decided to walk the 4 miles back to Agriturismo Podere San Giorgio. 

Dinner tonight was one of the best we’ve had since being here. From the various crostini appetizers to the first course of a cheese and sausage lasagna, to the second course of barbecued beef and roasted potatoes, to a berry custard for dessert, it was delicious. This was more food than we’re accustomed to eating. Typically, each of us orders either a pasta or meat dish accompanied by a salad or roasted vegetables. Tonight, we ate like true Italians!

A view of Radicofani's fortress tower

Romanesque Chiesa di San Pietro

Enjoying a stroll through Radicofani's medieval 
streets

Central piazza in Radicofani - Piazza di Ghino
di Tacco - named after a famous Sienese
gentleman bandit

Looking back at the hilltop town of Radicofani

Strolling back from town

Cypress-lined driveway to our agriturismo

Thursday, September 25th

The full route today was 18+ miles, but we opted to shorten it and requested a transfer from the town of Ponte a Rigo to Proceno. Additionally, we had an early morning 4-mile transfer from the agriturismo to Radicofani. Since we were walking a shorter track today, Rich joined us on our journey. After a long downhill from Radicofani, the track leveled out as we walked on gravel and dirt paths toward Ponte a Rigo. The landscape has changed dramatically. Gone are most of the vineyards, olive groves and cypress trees. Instead, we’re seeing farmlands and freshly plowed fields.

Rain was threatening as we reached Ponte a Rigo, but we found a sheltered picnic table at a pilgrim rest stop just outside town and waited for our ride. We were joined by a young woman from Vancouver, B.C. who was also walking to Rome. However, she was walking quite a bit further than we were today. We only hope she made it to her destination before the rain started. 

Total mileage was 9 miles with 320 feet of elevation gain.

A last view of Radicofani

According to this sign we've come 793 km (493 miles)
from Aosta and have 184 km (114 miles) to Rome

Changing scenery

Storm clouds are brewing

Exploring the medieval streets of Proceno

Colorful flower baskets everywhere

View of the Castello di Proceno, our lodging for
the night

Via Francigena Days 34 and 35: San Quirico d'Orcia to Castelnuovo dell'Abate & Castelnuovo dell'Abate to Castiglione d'Orcia

Monday, September 22nd

The route from San Quirico to Castelnuovo dell’Abate was short (8.5) but with significant climbs, including one that had a section with 20% grade! Total elevation gain was 1500 feet. The majority of our walk was off the Via Francigena meaning we saw absolutely no one once we diverged from the official route. It also meant we had to be diligent in following our map directions as there was no signage to guide us. It was overcast most of the day, contributing to very pleasant temperatures and walking conditions and even with cloudy skies the scenery was beautiful. It’s amazing how quickly the weather has changed! I think we’ve seen the end of 80- and 90-degree temperatures.

As of today, we have travelled 453 miles with 149 miles to go! 

Church in San Quirico d'Orcia

Fortress/castle seen along the way

Row after row of vineyards

Tuesday, September 23rd

We had thunderstorms and torrential rain starting @ 5:00 pm yesterday, but this morning the sun was peeking out and we ventured out without rain jackets on, but instead safely tucked in our backpacks if needed. The forecast was for more rain, but we were hoping we could finish our walk before the rain started. We had one long downhill out of Castelnuovo dell’Abate followed by two very long climbs, the first on asphalt and the second mainly on gravel. Total elevation gain was @ 1600 feet.

We finished our 10-mile hike into Castiglione d’Orcia as the rain started. As we waited at the local bar for a transfer to our accommodations, the rain really started coming down in earnest. By the time we reached Podere San Giorgio (a rural farm outside the town of Radicofani and our accommodations for the next two nights) streams and rivulets were running down the hillsides.

Morning mist over Castelnuovo dell'Abate

Last view of Castelnuovo dell'Abate as we leave town

The muddy Orcia River following the latest storm

Olive orchards in the distance

Another view of orchards in the distance

Medieval ruins above the town of
Castiglione d'Orcia